Malaysia Motorcycle Adventure: Penang to Ipoh Through Lush Jungles

This motorcycle route will take you from Penang Island on the west coast of Malaysia straight through Banjaran Titiwangsa; the largest remaining continuous stretch of jungle in Peninsular Malaysia. This motorcycle trip concludes at Ipoh, a city surrounded by jagged limestone mountains filled with breathtaking caves and magical cave temples. You'll be driving along some of the greatest motorcycle roads that Malaysia has to offer. Expect windy roads with minimal amount of traffic, lush tropical rainforest, exquisite National Parks, impressive limestone mountains, mystical caves, friendly locals and some impressive waterfalls. Somehow, large parts of this route is little frequented by tourists. I just met three foreigners in the two weeks it took me to get from Penang to Cameron Highlands. I had some exquisite waterfalls all to myself, including Jelawan waterfall; arguably the highest waterfall of South East Asia. Altogether, I spend several days exploring surreal caves, again all by myself. It's going to be a wonderful drive and a great adventure. On top of that, Malaysia is a country with one of the lowest petrol prices in the world!

I dont have all the pictures from this trip with me. I will add/change pictures in a few months when I'm back in the Netherlands.

The trip starts at Penang Island, a nice destination in it's own right. Renowned for it'd cuisine but also offering hiking trails, beaches and lots of culture, history and art. Penang is easily accessible by bus, train or flight. You should be able to rent a motorcycle here, but I drive my own, so I did not look into this. Please leave a comment if you found a good place to rent one!

Tony's Guesthouse is located in Teluk Bahang next to the popular beach town Batu Ferringhi and 1.4 km from the Penang National Park head office, making it an ideal place to stay if you plan on hiking in the National Park or in the nearby eco forest park Taman Rimba Teluk Bahang. It's a great budget option. On top of that, a big fleet of bikes are available to use for free (not in good condition, so not suitable for long distances) as well as a washing machine and detergent that can be used at no additional cost. There are 2 communal areas with 2 kitchens with a refrigerator, comfy couches and tables overlooking a nice garden. A dispenser with cold en hot water, free biscuits, tea and coffee. The place used to be a fish farm but is now transformed into a guest house. It's newly built, freshly painted in bright colors and is spotless. The wifi overall is ok, but sometimes the connection is bad. There is a small pack of friendly dogs around that get fed and like to get petted. The villagers of Teluk Bahang are very friendly and there are many options to eat great Malay food. Furthermore, the village has a deserted beach. It is not the cleanest beach in the world and I wouldn't swim there, but it's nice enough to lie down on or to make a nice walk overlooking the Andaman sea and Pulau Langkawi. I highly recommend Tony's Guesthouse if you're planning on staying on Pulau Penang!

You can take the Sultan Abdul Halim Muadzam Shah Bridge, the 2nd largest bridge of South East Asia, to get off the island. It's a 24 kilometers drive over the turquoise colored Malacca Strait. Driving over the ocean with the horizon far away, the wind and the smell of the sea gives an incredible feeling of freedom. Alternatively you can take Penang Bridge with a length of 13,5 kilometers. Just as nice and much shorter to Jeli if you depart from Tony's Guest House or George Town. Both bridges are toll bridges but free for motorcyclists. 

After exiting Penang Bridge it's a short drive to Federal Route 4, which is also toll free for motorcyclists. Federal Route 4 is a motorcyclist dream with many curves, small changes in elevation and towering mountains covered with lush jungle. It passes Royal Belum State Park, home to one of the oldest tropical rainforests on this planet with 248 million years old rock formations. It's a great alternative to more touristy Taman Negara. You could stop here if you want to visit the park. Alternatively, you can have lunch and an iced coffee at Restoran Amiza Titiwangsa (see map on top of this page for location), like I did. It is a nice place to rest while taking in the beautiful jungle covered mountain vistas of Royal Belum State Park.

Federal Route 4 is in pretty good condition but has some cracks and patches here and there. There is a possibility of wildlife (like wild elephants and even tapirs) crossing the road. I saw a dead monkey on the way, and I had to brake for a monitor lizard trying to cross. The road is popular with Malaysian bikers. I was there on a sunny Sunday and there were many other bikers on the road testing the limit of their bikes. So be aware, in a sharp corner you might find another bikers head on your side of the road.

Eleven kilometers before Jeli, the endpoint of the first leg of this trip, you'll pass Gunung Reng. Gunung Reng is an impressive lime stone rock formation popping out of the ground with a gaping hole giving access to a cave. Stairs leading into the cave give access to a big chamber full of bats and guano. The cave is lit with bright lights and there were other chambers visible. But it was really slippery and when I tried to enter one of the holes leading to another space the sole of one of my sneakers disappeared in a big layer of guano, so I decided not to explore the rest of the cave. It might be possible to climb to the top of Gunung Reng. After climbing the stairs that give access to the cave, there is an opening to the right. Here you'll find a path marked by pieces of plastic traffic lint. I followed it to about half the height of the mountain but there the markings stopped, at least I could not find more markers. Please leave a comment if you were able to climb to the top!

I stayed at the Aisy Hotel, which was both affordable, clean and the staff was friendly. It is located in Ayer Lanas, 16 kilometres northeast of Jeli. So, as opposed to staying in Jeli, you must ride an additional 32 kilometers. But the accommodation in Jeli was quite a bit pricier, so I chose to stay here. My room had no windows, but it did have aircon and mechanical ventilation. The mattress was new and soft for Asian standards. And as a bonus it is about 3 kilometers away from Restoran Kuali Gelegok Yani. A restaurant with a huge selection of very tasty ready-made food! If you prefer to stay in Jeli have a search below:

Restoran Kuali Gelegok Yani, located in Jeli, Kelantan, is a great spot to enjoy authentic East Coast Malaysian cuisine. Their menu features beloved local dishes such as:

• Nasi Dagang – Fragrant rice steamed with coconut milk, served with rich tuna curry and pickled vegetables.
• Nasi Kerabu – A striking blue-colored rice dish served with fresh herbs, salted egg, grilled meat or fish, and a side of spicy sambal.
• Kerutuk Kambing – A traditional Kelantanese slow-cooked mutton stew, richly spiced with local herbs and coconut milk.
• Ikan Bakar Petai – Grilled fish served with petai (stink beans), which adds a unique, slightly bitter yet delicious flavor.
• Ikan Bakar Tempoyak Petai – Grilled fish marinated in tempoyak (fermented durian) and served with petai, creating a bold, tangy, and savory taste.

The restaurant operates daily, making it a convenient stop for both locals and travelers exploring the region. If you're looking for an authentic taste of Kelantanese cuisine in a welcoming setting, Restoran Kuali Gelegok Yani is definitely worth a visit!

Route 66 will bring you to Jelawan waterfall: an impressive and arguably the tallest waterfall of South East Asia. It's just a 50 kilometers ride from Jeli over a nice road with little traffic and some curves, although the road is less curvy as Route 4. The road is flanked by Gunung Stong State Park on the right-hand side and provides nice views of its towering mountains and lush jungle. Unfortunately, the park seems not to be well maintained, and I saw trucks with large logs driving on the roads. 

Stong Hill Resort, which also functions as the entry to the park, used to be state owned but now has been privatized because of lack of funds. Visitors can pay 10RM to enter the resort, but this only gives you access to the premises of the resort, from which a minor glimpse of Jelawan waterfall can be had. To properly see the waterfall, you need to hire a guide. The need is by regulation only. It's about a twenty minute climb up along a well maintained path with ropes and steps formed by tree roots to the base of the waterfall. It's about another half hour to the top of the waterfall and Baha's Camp.

You can stay at Jelawang Waterfall itself, offering a unique experience right next to the falls. Alternatively, Dabong, located just 6 kilometers away, provides another option and is accessible via its train station. However, at the time of writing, accommodation in Dabong is not available for booking through platforms like Agoda or Booking.com.

I stayed at the Stong Hill Resort at the foot of majestic Jelawang Waterfall. At the time of writing, the resort could use some cleaning and maintenance. But the price is affordable, and you're in the heart of the jungle, right at the base of the Jelawang Waterfall and the river that flows from it. The resort offers private bungalows and a dormitory.

Upon reaching Baha's Camp, perched atop the majestic Jelawang Waterfall, you're greeted with panoramic vistas that stretch endlessly. The camp offers basic yet comfortable tents, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the natural beauty of the surroundings. As evening approaches, the sky transforms into a canvas of warm oranges and purples. The setting sun casts a golden glow over the landscape, making the arduous hike worthwhile. But it’s not just the sunsets that make Baha’s Camp special. Wake up early—before the world stirs—and step outside to witness the sunrise. As the first rays of light break over the peaks, the jungle below comes alive in a soft, golden glow. It’s a sight that makes you forget the early wake-up call and reminds you why you came.

For those eager to explore further, the trail leading to the summit of Gunung Stong and Gunung Ayam beckons. The path is challenging, with steep inclines and rugged terrain, but the reward at the peak is unparalleled. From this vantage point, the world below seems distant, and the horizon stretches infinitely.

At the time of writing, Ja runs the camp. He can be reached on telephone number +6012 968 1554. Please let me know in the comments when this info is outdated so I can update it here!

Just a short drive from Dabong or Jelawang Waterfall, Gua Ikan Recreational Park offers a trail leading to several deserted caves. The entrance, at the time of writing, is a bit tricky to locate, but I’ve included a map with coordinates in a this blog post to guide you. The caves themselves aren’t very deep, making them easy to explore on your own without needing a guide. Surrounded by lush jungle-clad mountains, the cool, shaded interiors provide a refreshing break from the tropical heat. Whether you’re curious about the folklore or just looking for a quiet adventure, Gua Ikan is a hidden gem worth discovering.

An enjoyable 80 kilometers ride northeast of Jelawan Waterfall brings you to Lata Berangin Waterfall offering a peaceful retreat in its own right. Reaching Lata Berangin is straightforward: a narrow tar road leads directly to a car park close to the falls. The waterfall itself is a serene sight, with cool, cascading waters that tumble into a crystal-clear pool below. It’s a tranquil spot, perfect for a quick visit to admire its beauty or enjoy a refreshing splash.

En route to Lata Berangin, you’ll come across Air Terjun Lata Rek. While it doesn’t quite compete with the grandeur of other waterfalls in the area, it’s a pleasant roadside stop to stretch your legs and take in the scenery. The small cascade and surrounding greenery make it a simple yet refreshing addition to the journey. Lata Rek may not demand much time, but it offers a moment to pause and enjoy the gentle beauty of nature before continuing on to the main highlight of Lata Berangin.

Gua Musang is nestled in the heart of Malaysia's Kelantan state. Gua Musang is a hidden gem for adventurers seeking stunning landscapes and outdoor challenges. The town is enveloped by majestic limestone cliffs, offering a dramatic backdrop that captivates visitors as they explore the city. 

A must-visit for thrill-seekers, this peak provides panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The adventure starts with a walk from the train station to a small residential area. Behind these houses, you’ll find ropes leading up into a cave—the gateway to the peak. The climb is an exciting mix of scrambling, rope-assisted sections, and ladders leading through the cave and up to the stunning viewpoint at the summit. While I embarked on this hike solo, it's important to note that the trail can be challenging and may not be suitable for everyone to undertake alone. For those who prefer guidance, arranging for a local guide is advisable. Guided hiking and caving experiences can be booked through Klook, ensuring a safer and more informative trek. 

Gua Musang's blend of rugged terrain and serene vistas makes it an ideal destination for those who love the outdoors. Whether you're drawn by the thrill of the climb or the allure of its natural wonders, this town promises an unforgettable experience.

The hotel I stayed at in Gua Musang was not very nice and had bed bugs, so I cannot recommend it. You can do a search for alternatives below:

Getting to Cameron Highlands from Gua Musang means taking the northern route via Road 185 and then Road 59. Road 59 is not nice, the heavy traffic and mountains covered in plastic greenhouses take away from the experience. From the turnoff from Road 185 onto Road 59, I got stuck behind a bus, crawling my way up the 24 km stretch in about 40 minutes. When I left Camron Highlands for Ipoh, the route was less congested. It's possible it was due to the fact it was a Monday and the big tea plantation is closed on these days. So, if you would like to go, you might consider going on a Monday.

However, once you're in Cameron Highlands, the southern section of Road 59 towards Tapah is absolutely worth riding. With smooth curves, light traffic, and lush green jungle clad mountains.

Tucked away at the end of a quiet dead-end road, Jungle Ippie Hostel offers a laid-back retreat in the heart of Cameron Highlands. With its relaxed atmosphere and welcoming vibe, it’s a great place to unwind after a day of exploring.

The hostel features both dormitories and private rooms, catering to different travel styles. The dorms have normal beds instead of bunk beds, offering a more comfortable stay, while the private rooms provide extra space and privacy. At the heart of the hostel is the bar, where travelers gather in the evenings to share stories over a drink. There might be music playing, adding to the social and lively atmosphere.

A large roofed space with tables offers a great spot to sit, relax, and chat with fellow travelers, whether you're having breakfast or just enjoying the cool mountain air.

For those arriving by car or motorcycle, there’s space for parking right in front, making it a convenient choice. Jungle Ippie’s location down a dead-end road means there’s no through traffic, ensuring a quiet escape from the busier parts of town.

Book or check for alternatives in the area.

The ride from Cameron Highlands to Ipoh on Road 185 is a fantastic way to finish the journey. After exiting congested Road 59, the rest of Road 185 is a joy to ride; full of sweeping curves and elevation changes and surrounded by jungle-clad mountains. The road offers stunning views and an engaging ride, making it one of the best stretches in the region.

However, at the time of writing, the road surface had many cracks and patches, so it's worth riding with caution. Despite this, the combination of twists, turns, and lush green surroundings makes it a memorable ride and a perfect end to the adventure.

Upon entering Ipoh, you’ll be greeted by dramatic jagged limestone karsts rising from the landscape, setting the stage for the adventure that awaits. This city is packed with things to do, from exploring caves and cave temples to indulging in its famous cuisine. Whether you’re into nature, culture, or food, Ipoh delivers.

One of the must-visit spots is Gua Kek Look Tong, a breathtaking cave temple hidden within a massive limestone cavern. Inside, golden Buddha statues sit beneath towering stalactites, and at the back of the cave, a peaceful garden opens up, surrounded by limestone cliffs. For those craving more adventure, Gua Tempurung offers one of the largest limestone cave systems in Peninsular Malaysia. Here, you can take an easy walk through its grand chambers or go deeper on an adventurous spelunking tour, wading through underground rivers and exploring hidden caverns.

And that’s just the start; Ipoh has so much more to offer. From street food to street art, colonial buildings to natural hot springs, there’s plenty to explore. Stay tuned for a separate blog post diving deeper into everything this action-packed city has to offer.

For a clean, comfortable, and well-maintained stay in Ipoh, Beds In Garden Hostel is a great choice. The place is spotlessly clean, and the mattresses are soft and comfortable, making it an ideal spot to rest after a long day of exploring.

The hostel offers both private rooms and dormitories in various sizes, catering to different types of travelers. Some dorms have bunk beds, while others come with normal beds, providing flexibility depending on your preference. A shared kitchen is available for those who like to prepare their own meals, adding to the homey feel of the place.

There are parking spots in front of the hostel, and in the evening I could put my bike inside for added security. With its clean and cozy setup, Beds In Garden Hostel makes for a solid base while exploring everything Ipoh has to offer.

The only drawback of this hostel is the noise in the evening from the club nearby. I have custom made motorcycle earplugs, so for me this was not a problem.

Check availability and alternatives in the area.